Q&A: What's a good down payment size?

This is actually quite a complicated question. For one, things can change rapidly. For example, the interest rate penalties for high loan to value (LTV) ratios used to be higher. I believe they have been reduced in many cases as part of the effort to improve the housing market. On the other hand, a lot of loan regulations have gotten stricter to avoid bad loans entering the market again. Basically, rate changes related to your LTV need to be discussed with your lender.

Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) still needs to be purchased when your LTV is greater than 80%. PMI is typically equivalent to a 0.50% to 0.75% interest rate hike for the period it needs to be paid. Some lenders advertise PMI-free loans even when your LTV is greater than 80%. The PMI still has to be purchased, but for these loans the lender buys it. They will pass this cost on to you via a higher interest rate - there is no such thing as a free lunch. Because your interest rate won't change for the life of a standard 30-year fixed rate mortgage, this interest rate, even if it results in lower monthly costs than buying PMI, could very well cost you more in the long run. Again, go over the details with your lender.

When it comes to deciding between making a larger down payment and buying PMI (or accepting a higher interest rate to cover PMI expenses), you have to look at the best use of your money. My previous post on whether or not to prepay your mortgage could be helpful in evaluating your options. Personally, I would rather avoid PMI than invest a few thousand dollars, say. Whatever you invest that money in would have to earn you more than the PMI payments and extra principal and interest payment amount (minus taxes on the interest and PMI, since PMI is tax deductible like mortgage interest). In fact, this should be considered an addendum to my previous post: The return needed to overcome PMI probably warrants paying extra principal at least until you reach 80% LTV. Psychologically, I just hate the idea of paying private mortgage insurance because it only benefits the lender.

Paying extra principal at the beginning such that you have less than 80% LTV ratio mostly follows my previous post's recommendations. The only difference is that the extra principal in this case does reduce your minimum monthly payment. When determining the terms of your loan, though, you have another option to reduce your payment: you can pay points to reduce your interest rate. As you can see using my refinancing calculator, reducing your interest rate can reduce the interest portion of your payment more than the total monthly payment amount in some cases. You have a choice in which number you use in determining your break even point, but obviously the total monthly payment might be all you care about.

I would make a point-paying calculator, but the cost of each interest rate reduction isn't always the same. For example, it may cost you half a point to move from 5.000% to 4.750%, but another half a point to move from 4.750% to just 4.625%. The user interface of such a calculator would be clunky at best. You can use the refinancing calculator fairly easily to get individual values and compile your own table of break-even times, though. Just find a payment amount for a 0-point loan and plug that into the current loan information fields. Then zero out the closing costs and adjust the points value and find the resulting interest rate entry.

Overall, I would tend toward a 20% down payment if you can afford it so you can avoid PMI. After that 20%, paying points will usually reduce your monthly payments more than extra principal. I paid half a point on my first loan, I think, and zero points on my refinance, other than the quarter-point fee I paid to waive escrow. For the most part, it comes down to what you feel comfortable paying up front versus owing later. I'm not sure there's ever a clearly wrong decision!

Q&A: Should I Pay Down Extra Principal Each Month?

Whether or not to pay down extra principal each month is a complicated question, and one that doesn't have a universal answer by any means. For the purposes of this discussion, we'll assume that an extra payment fits in your budget. Otherwise, the question is a bit moot.

Paying down principal has two primary effects. First, it takes money out of your pocket. Second, it increases your equity. Increasing your equity has the effects of reducing the interest you pay over the life of your loan and increasing your borrowing power. We'll go backwards through these effects this time around.

The borrowing power I'm referring to here will usually take the form of a home equity line of credit (HELOC). If you make a larger down payment, your monthly expenses can be lower, which can increase your borrowing power for a new loan, but if you're just getting a mortgage, chances are you're not looking for many other new loans. (Indeed, you shouldn't be, as new loan credit inquiries can negatively affect your credit score! Wait for your mortgage to be finalized before looking at car loans, for example.) The only thing I would use a HELOC for is an emergency fund. It's a great way to be able to pay down principal and still have access to that money in a pinch. If the pinch comes and you don't already have a HELOC, you're unlikely to be able to get a HELOC, so it's important to plan ahead. HELOCs are usually restricted to whatever equity you've built beyond 20%, so that your combined LTV remains at 80% or less. They also usually require a recent appraisal, so even the no-fee HELOCs aren't entirely cost-free to set up.

To me, though, this benefit of paying down principal isn't a major selling point, as evidenced by the fact that I do not have a HELOC. For emergency funds beyond my cash on hand, I would rely on loans from my family. I haven't formalized that line of credit in any way, and maybe I should do so rather than taking it for granted. At the same time, I can make sure my family knows that I would be there for them, too.

I view principal reduction as an investment that returns a savings in interest payments. Unfortunately, the rate of return on that investment isn't always just the interest rate of your mortgage. I included a simple calculator in my post on your effective mortgage interest rate, but that doesn't give a complete picture of your investment.

First, just as in my discussion on S&P 500 growth, values were not inflation adjusted. When it comes to the returns of the S&P 500, you have to subtract the inflation rate to get an inflation-adjusted return (approximately, anyway). Your mortgage works much the same way except that inflation helps debt, so you get to subtract the inflation rate from the interest rate you pay and get an inflation-adjusted interest rate. You get a benefit now (the home) and pay for it with less and less valuable dollars. Not a bad deal for the purchase, but it lowers the rate of return on principal payments. For the default values in the calculator above, the effective interest rate is 3.75%. After adjusting for inflation by subtracting 3.3% (though recent inflation has been lower), you're left with a nice low 0.45% inflation-adjusted effective interest rate.

Second, paying down principal now takes off interest from the very end of the loan. Your minimum payment doesn't go down and you can't readily access that money except through a HELOC. It is definitely a long-term investment, and the rate of return is locked for that entire period. It's similar to buying a multi-year CD with a rather - even ridiculously - low rate, given the current interest rate environment.

Third, paying down principal really shows the nature of compounding. Every payment that goes by, the principal you pay down saves you one fewer compounding of interest. Take a look at a monthly amortization schedule (my favorite calculator). You'll notice that the principal you pay goes up each month, while the interest paid goes down. Where you are in the schedule depends entirely on the principal outstanding, so to move up the schedule by a month (and in effect take a payment off the back end), you just have to pay the principal for the next month ahead of time. Thus, the extra payment required to gain a month goes up each time. The rate of return doesn't go down, but the time horizon is shortened and the compounding reduced. If that shortening of the time horizon is your goal, there are definitely diminishing returns.

As mentioned above, paying principal takes money out of your pocket. Whether or not paying principal is a good investment really depends on which pocket the money comes from. If it's coming from a cash account, chances are good that you will get a larger return by eliminating interest. If you are paying extra principal instead of making an IRA or 401(k) contribution or otherwise investing, then you are missing out on what is very likely to be a higher return in the stock market. Remember that it is important to compare inflation-adjusted rates to each other, and non-inflation-adjusted rates to each other. Mixing and matching is not a valid comparison.

Basically, as near as I can tell, prepaying principal doesn't make financial sense unless mortgage interest rates are over ten percent or so. I don't think many people today would pay down their mortgage if it weren't for the psychological benefits. Being in debt just doesn't feel very good - especially when it's tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars and can result in being homeless. Conversely, there's no feeling quite like knocking another month off the end of your mortgage. It's also a lot of fun to reduce your principal by the first $1,000; the first $10,000; the first $100,000 (I imagine). I'm also really looking forward to the day (soon, I think!) when my various investment and cash accounts could pay off my mortgage if I liquidated them. That would mean I could pay off the house if I had to, significantly lowering my monthly expenses so that I could live off a minimum wage job, for example. However, when I get close to the end of my mortgage, I imagine that I will pay it off simply for the monthly cash flow improvement, whether I need it or not.

In the end, I pay a couple hundred extra each month despite the logic behind investing it instead. I guess that's the price I put on the psychological benefits above. Pretty cheap therapy, actually.

Taxes 2008

This post is analogous to last year's tax post.

Taxes for 2008 turned out to be much simpler than last year for the following reasons:

• I only lived in one state, and so did not need to split my income.


• I closed one of my accounts to pay for the down payment on my house in 2007, so I no longer have to worry about all those forms and trades. That account had tons of trading activity.


• I was familiar with which sites I needed to log in to in order to get various 1099 forms - mainly Countrywide.


• TurboTax imported last year's return so I didn't have as much data entry on my personal information.

I was actually fairly pleased with TurboTax. It still had a few problems (there was no official way to enter short sales [such as cash-secured puts], so I'm not sure I did that right, but the total profits/losses are correct), but was improved from last year overall.

In addition to TurboTax, I used Kansas' WebFile page to e-file my Kansas return. I basically just entered things in line by line from the form TurboTax generated, but didn't have to print it out or mail it. I think that will be the more environmentally friendly route, plus get me my refund sooner.

Speaking of refunds, I get big refunds! From the federal government, I get $5397 back, and I get $854 from Kansas. Governments, you're welcome for the 0% loans over the last year! Please place money in my savings account soon.

What will I do with all that money? Well, you should read this post on things I want to buy, and this post on mortgage refinancing, all while keeping in mind that a cash reserve is nice to have and build.

Why was my refund so large when I owed so much last year? Another list:

• This was my first full year of paying my mortgage, which means a full year of mortgage interest deducted.


• This year sucked for investments, so I had no realized capital gains. I'd rather pay taxes than not be building wealth, though.


• This was my first full year of paying property taxes, which are deductible.

Taxes - What I learned

So, I know I posted a couple entries ago about how I already completed my taxes. Well, that's the first thing I learned.

Always wait until the last day to file your taxes because you never know when your dad will call you up saying that he found one of your tax forms that got delivered to your old permanent address.

Thankfully, I had waited a long time and hadn't actually sent anything off yet. The form in question was a 1099-INT from Bank of America. It took me a minute to realize that my 0% interest checking account did indeed process interest (as opposed to earning it) when I cashed in a bunch of savings bonds my grandfather bought for me in the 80s. In case you were curious, I used it to help pay for the down payment on my house. Anyway, the new final tally (and I really hope it is final, since I sent them off): I owe $3015 to the federal government, and $1416 to Missouri, but get $1117 back from Kansas.

As a side note, the above situation wouldn't have happened if the IRS prepared your taxes and sent the completed forms for you to verify or add addendum forms to.

I also reasoned out a couple of things that always struck me as ridiculously unfair. First, I figured out why state refunds can sometimes be taxed as income the following year. When you itemize your deductions, one of those deductions is the taxes withheld during the year. So, effectively, that refunded money was held by the government for a year, deferring taxes owed on it. It had always seemed to be a double tax on that money, but it does work out to be more fair than I had originally figured. Plus, the same logic applies to deductions: the check to Missouri that I wrote on April 15th will be a deduction on my taxes for 2008.

I actually can't remember what the second thing I reasoned out was. Instead, I'll open it up to comments: Does anyone have any interesting tips, information, or anything else they want to say about taxes?

House Closing

So, on Monday I signed a whole bunch of papers. Before that, there was a bit of excitement. My homeowners insurance wasn't officially processed yet, so I had to run down to their office and get everything sorted out. Plus, I wasn't told until about 9:30am what amount to get a cashier's check made out for. Incidentally, I don't think Bank of America charged me for my cashier's check. That made me slightly happy. Anyway, I was a few minutes late to my 10:00 meeting.

After another 15 minutes of waiting, all the paperwork was printed off, and I was ready to sign. That took quite awhile, but it was relatively painless. Finally, I went to get my house key, do a quick walk-through, then head back over to the insurance place to work out car insurance. And eat lunch.

So, the gist of it is that I now own a house, and a sizable debt on said house.

What's surprising, though, is how unexcited I am. I was quite excited during the offer/counteroffer/acceptance stage, but that has worn off. It is surely difficult to maintain a high level of excitement for most of a month, and I've had plenty to keep me busy in the meantime. We'll just have to see if the moving process brings a whole new period of excitement.

On a completely unrelated note, my serious little blog here has been flagged as possible blog spam by Google. I guess most people don't have such boring blogs primarily discussing mortgages. But, I have a mortgage, so there's little reason to talk about it anymore. I'm sure this means my blog will become ever so much more interesting...

Wire Transfers

I'm breathing a bit easier this evening, as Bank of America has informed me that I have a pending wire transfer. My funds should be available at least by Monday, and that's what matters. Incidentally, I have made about 3.87% since the beginning of the year on that money. In contrast, the money I have with Merrill Lynch has made about 6.41%. Both of these numbers are before advising fees. In contrast with both of those, I have a realized gain of 9.63% plus an unrealized gain of 1.02%, totaling a 7.55% gain in my E*TRADE account, not including excess cash that earns 5% per year. So, the account I closed would appear to be my poorest performing. A good decision.

And on Monday, I will officially buy a house. Hopefully also a good decision.

Financial Advisers

When talking to your financial adviser about closing an account in order to make a down payment on the house you are about to buy, where does responsibility lie? In our conversation a couple weeks ago, he asked when the closing date was. I said my closing date was May 3rd. He then commented on how it should be OK, then, to not overnight the request to close the account. I agreed. He wrote down that the account needs to be closed sometime before May 3rd.

This is so far from what we agreed on. There was a choice on whether to use fast or slow mail, not on when to send the request to close the account. Admittedly, the stock market has gone up quite a bit this month, so by waiting I have made an extra 1-2 thousand dollars, probably, but that doesn't make his actions right. I said I wanted my money, and he kept it from me, telling me one thing and doing another. I'm not happy.